I made the Ginger jeans a couple of years ago, but like my Sasha trousers they were destined to fail. Jeans aren’t difficult to make but they can be difficult to fit. I always go by the finished measurements so I don’t have to make a muslin. Luckily I’m a fairly standard size and shape and don’t have many failures due to fitting.
As Heather explains in this post the Gingers are supposed to have negative ease so when I checked the finished garment measurements it put me at a size 14 (18 in UK terms). After my first failure and reading the post and checking my body measurements rather than finished measurements it put me at an 8/10. I decided to make a straight size 10 as I was wary they would be too small. For anyone interested my waist is 28/29″ and hips are 39″ and I’m 5’6″.
I’m hoarding some Cone Mills denim from Blackbird fabrics and although my Levi’s (years old now) are starting to go at hips I have plenty of indigo jeans in my wardrobe. To test the new size and to get the fit right I used some true black Japanese selvedge denim from Ditto fabrics. The Japanese denim is only 78 cm wide and so I had to cut my waistband in half to fit – next time I will order a little extra. It’s great quality denim, it doesn’t bag out during the day, in fact it barely gave. They went from super tight to super snug over the full day. Unlike the cheap denim of my Morgan’s which stretch almost immediately!
I chose view A (being short waisted, I think high waisted jeans will make me look all legs and nothing else) with view B skinny legs. I sewed the pockets and fly then bashed together – from my Sasha Trousers post you can see that I have some trouble with Closet Case instructions. Again I struggled with the fly instructions until I used the pictures as well as the written instructions which helped. Normally I just use the written instructions and use the pictures to double check it’s correct.
I basted them together after the pockets and fly. I took 4(!!!!) inches out of the centre back seam. This sway back issue is causing me some serious back and hip issues especially carrying Emily over the holidays. They were a little tight around the hips so I reduced the seam allowance to 1/2″. Now they’re tight but comfortably so and I expect them to give over the course of the day. I also reduced the width of the lower leg by another inch to make them even skinnier – you will pry my skinny jeans out of my cold dead hands. This whole wide legged CROPPED pant trend is making me want to vomit. They remind me of my emo days of wearing the biggest widest jeans and combined with those HIDEOUS backless mules is just no bueno. As you can probably tell I’m no fashionista!
Anyway back to the jeans … when I finally made the adjustments and tried them on it was love at first sight. I am obsessed with these pants and the fact that I made them is even better!